Garment construction



J A. .AYOUB GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed April 15 1943 INVENTOR, JOSEPH A. Avoua.

I Arrows Patented Oct. 16, 1945 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Joseph A. Ayoub, San Francisco, Calif. Application April 13, 1943, Serial No. 482,846

3 Claims. (Cl. 2 -115) This invention relates to garments, and pertains especially to a novel sleeve construction for waists, blouses, blouse-slips, shirts, and the like.

By the usual methods of design, cutting and fabrication, much trouble and inconvenience are encountered by a wearer, when the arm is lifted, as the tendency of waists, blouses, shirts, etc., is to pull upwardly and outwardly from beneath the waistband of the skirt or trousers into which the lower or tail portion of the upper sleeved garment is tucked. This tendency to pull upwardly is due in large measure to the lack of slack in the under portion of the sleeve, where it joins the body portion of the garment, sumcient to permit of the necessary hinge action of the sleeve relative to the body of the garment, as the arm is moved about the shoulder.

The novelty of the present invention lies in the underarm construction of the sleeve and comprehends a novel formation or out of the sleeve bank, such that when it is fitted to and sewed to the armhole of the garment body th necess'ary slack and take-up are provided to prevent strains on the garment, when the arm is lifted,

and to afford a wearer of the finished garment comfort and freedom of movement, while at the same time insuring close and smooth fit without detraction from the necessary and proper styling and appearance of the garment itself.

. Having reference to the accompanying draw- Fig. 1 is a plan view of the upper portion of a sleeve blank.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the upper portion of a sleeve blank stitched to form a sleeve.

Fig. 3 is a side view of a completed garment.

Fig. 4 is an elevational view of the novel sleeve and garment body attachment.

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic illustration of the action of the invention.

A represents a sleeve blank or pattern for a blouse, shirt, or the like, the body of said shirt being usually of such length as to allow it to be tucked into and held down in place by the waistband of a skirt. The novelty of sleeve blank A of the improved garment resides in the provision of twotriangular wings or projectionsZ; the dotted base lines 3 of each triangular wing representing the outline of the conventional blouse sleeve blank. In practice, the angle subtended by the two converging sides of a wing 2 is approximately 60, although it may vary from 55 the ultimate position of the underarm seam'of the finished sleeve.

The pattern blank of the sleeve possesses two of these triangular projections 2, one on each side, complementary and identical. They are so positioned that when the blank is folded into sleeve shape and the seamis sewed, the triangular wings come together andjoin as a continuation of the normal underarm seam of the sleeve, which, in turn, is in alignment with and generally in continuation of the sideseam of the garment body. f g

For illustrative purpose, it is assumed that'the opposite edges 5 of blank A, wh ich has been out to proper dimensions, according to the size of the prospective wearer, are sewed together along seam '4 to form the underarm seam, as indicated in Fig. 2, and, assuming that the seam material has been trimmed away as therein shown, the conjoined wings 2 constitute a re-entrant angular projection 6 of approximatelylZOi the apex of which is indicated at I. This section, formed by the union of the angular extensions 2, is immediately adjacent to the underarm seam of the sleeve and extendstowards the body and away from the wrist. In the sleeve blank,.as shown in Fig. 2, it extends from the usual underarm seam of the. sleeve to form an inclined projection in the armpit portion orbevel of the sleeve blank. In practice, the angle of. the projection may vary from to more or less. for reasons above indicated. Broken lines,3 (Fig. 2) correspond to the like numbered linesof Fig. 1 and represent the outline of the. ordinaryconventional sleeve without the extensions 2.

.The apex .1 of the angular portionof the terminus of the bottom portion of the. sleeve is united directly to the body garment in the line of the side seam 8 (Fig. 3) of the body portion of the blouse. At the top thereof the-sleeve, as shown in Fig. 2, is joined to the garment body in the usual manner by anarmholeseam 9, parallel to the sleeve edge-l0, the sides -I I of wings 2 obviously forming .part of the sleeve edge Ill. The improvement of the added angular section does not change the formation of the body portion of the garment, the side seam remaining thesame length and terminating at the same relative point underneath the arm. There is no change made whatsoever in the construction of the body of the garment per se. The extra cloth is contained entirely in the sleeve portion and the freedom of movement and slack and playare accounted for because of the saidadditional sleeve material and resultant bellowsaction thereof when the arm is raised and lowered.

It is noted that the sides ll of wings 2 of the sleeve blank are not cut on the same arcuate line as that of the armpit portion of the armhole cut-out. Consequently, it is necessary for the tailor to distort the fabric of the sleeve as the blank is sewn to the armhole of the body portion of the garment. The. distortion or tension of the sleeve. fabric around the circumference of the; sleeve, caused by the arcuate cut of edges ill of the wings, contributes to the result that the added sleeve material folds inwardly against the body rather than bulking outwardly. The distortion of the sleeve blank edges to conform to the outline of the armhole explains the position of the armhole seam in Fig. 4 which does not define the projection in. the.

shape shown in Fig. 2. The sleeve blank is.

sewed to conform to the shape of the armhole cut-out, and not vice versa.

Fig. 4 shows the relative positions of the armhole seam 9, side seam 8: and underarmseam 4 and illustrates the position and area of the added material resulting from the joinder of wings 2. The added materialis defined by the area included within broken lines 3 and the armhole seam 9, which the broken lines intersect at a and b. The point of intersection c of the broken lines 3 with the underarm seam 4 indicatesv the conventional point of sleeve joinder to the bottom of the armhole cut-out or top of the side seam, designated at d. Itshould be borne in mind, of course, that d is in the same relative position of the garment. body portion under conventional tailoring practices as in my present invention. The dottedv lines represent. the outline of the conventional sleeve blank before joinder to the garment. body.

The natural fall of the. material, caused. by my novel sleeve blank design and the novel attachment of sleeve to the body, causes the projection 5 to move fellows-fashion inwardly against the body of the wearer, so there is no outward bulk or bulge because of the additional material of the sleeve, namely, the projection 5. The additional material is infolded toward the armpit of the garment wearer, when the arm is in dropped position (see Fig. 5) giving the desired lit and finish to the garment as the underarm portion of the sleeve assumes a natural, unwrinkled contour.

When the arm of the wearer is raised, the additional material, namely, projection 5, is unfolded and allows the sleeve to move upwardly and vertically with respect to the side seam 8 a greater distance than was heretofore possible Without pulling the side seam or the body of the blouse upwardly from the. waistband.

Fig; 5 illustrates the action of the new garment sleeve construction The infolded position of the added material which results when the wearers arm is in dropped position is illustrated in full line. The broken lines illustrate the unfolded position of the added material when the arm is raised.

In former garment sleeve construction point (I would be pulled upwardly to point 0 when the arm was raised, thereby pulling the whole side of the garment body upwardly a corresponding distance from point :13, which represents the position of the garment waistband- In the old construction when point d reached. pointv c any further upward movement. of the arm causes an evengreater displacement of. the garment bodyv even. when the arm israised as far as naturally possible. The addition of one inch of material,

represented by the side edges 5 of wings 2, allows the arm to be raised beyond the horizontal posi- 15 tion and upwardly to a nearly vertical position without displacement of the body of the garment. This is true because one inch of material added to the point of pivotal movement between sleeve and body gives a far greater freedom of movement to the arm and does not result in a premature binding. as was heretofore the case.

While I have illustrated my invention in more or less detail, it is understood that modifications and variations may be made within the spirit of my invention and the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A blouse-type. garment. having a body portion and a sleeve portion, the sleeve. portion having an underarm seam and the body portion having a regular shaped armhole and .a side seam, the upper end of the sleeve portion having an underarm angular projection which is bisected by the underarm seam,. the sides. of said angular projection forming. an angle of between and said angular projection formed by two substantially identical triangular projections integral with said sleeve portion and joined together by said underarm seam, the sleeve and body portions united around the arm hole with the underarm seam and. side seam substantially inline and in continuation with each other.

2. A blouse-type garment having a body portion and a sleeve portion, the body portion formed with an armhole, and the sleeve portion having two substantially identical angular projections formed integrally with the armpit portion thereof and sewed together and to said armhole of the body portion to form an angular projection whereby said angular projection enables the garment wearer to elevate the, sleeve without binding and whereby the -materlal 01 said projection folds smoothly inwardly when the wearers arm is lowered, the sides of said angular projection forming an angle of between 110 and 130, and theunderarm portion of the armhole formed to present a lesser degree of angularity than said angular projection.

3. A blouse-type garment having a body p rtion and a. sleeve portion, the body portion formed with an armhole, and the sleeve portion having two substantially identical angular projections formed integrally with the armpit portion thereof and sewed together and to said armhole of the body portion to form an angular projection whereby said angular projection enables the garment wearer to elevate the sleeve without binding and whereby the material of said projection folds smoothly inwardly when'the wearers arm is lowered, the sides of. each of said integral angular projections forming an angle of approximately 55.

JOSEPH A.. AYOUB. 

